You may have seen curl custard in the curly hair section at the store and wondered: what exactly is this stuff? Is it a gel? Something totally different? What does it do for your curls, and how are you even supposed to use it?

This guide breaks it all down: what curl custard is, how it compares to gel, which hair types it works best for, and when you might (or might not) want to use it. By the end, you’ll know exactly how to decide if a custard belongs in your routine and how to get the best results if you try one.

What Is Hair Gel

Hair gel is a styling product with a jelly-like texture that holds your hair in place as it dries. Its main job is to set your style so it lasts, helping your curls keep their shape, stay defined, and resist frizz throughout the day.

Gels come in many forms, from thin and lightweight (like liquid or spray gels) to thick and dense (like the kind you scoop out of a jar). They also vary in hold strength. Some give a soft, flexible finish, while others create a strong, long-lasting cast.

What Is Curling Custard?

If you noticed I mentioned custard under gels, you’re right. As Kelly Foreman, CEO of MopTop, told me, “Custard is a gel but with thicker viscosity.” She should know: MopTop’s Curling Custard is one of the most popular out there.

Custards generally offer a moderate to high hold and are often sold in jars rather than tubes. However, there’s no strict definition. Custard is more of a nickname for a certain type of gel formula that shares a few traits:

• Thicker, spreadable texture: kind of like jam or jelly
• Moderate to high hold
• Usually sold in jars (though a few come in tubes)
• Rich in humectants, ingredients that attract and hold moisture and form a soft film on the hair
• Low in emollients like oils and butters, which add slip and shine but can feel heavier

Custards are close cousins of:

• Elongating and edge control gels, which are usually even thicker with stronger hold
• Jellies and smoothies, which tend to have more emollients and a softer finish

Humectant-rich formulas like today’s curl custards actually trace back to the “curl activators” of the 1980s, used for styles like the Jheri Curl. Think shiny, juicy curls straight out of an ‘80s magazine, that’s the ancestor of your modern curl custard.

Custard vs. Gel: Key Differences

Technically, custard is a type of gel. Here’s how it usually differs from regular gels (though there are always exceptions since there are no industry-wide standards on custard vs. gel):

• Texture: Custards are usually thick but still spreadable like jam or pudding. Gels can range from very thin and liquidy (like spray gels) to dense and firm.
• Conditioning: Most gels include some kind of conditioner to reduce dryness, but in custards the stars are humectants , lighter ingredients that attract and retain moisture, rather than heavier emollients like oils
• Hold: Gels can range anywhere from soft to strong hold, while custards typically fall in the moderate to strong range.
• Styling: Kelly Foreman of MopTop told me that custards tend to create chunkier, clumpier curls than regular gels. They’re also great for traditional protective styles like twists and braid-outs.
• Flakes: One of the biggest gel complaints is flaking, but I generally hear fewer reports of flaking with custards.
• Crunch: Custards are less likely to leave your hair feeling hard or brittle thanks to those softening humectants.
• Protein: I very rarely see proteins as ingredients in custards, they instead usually rely on botanical film-forming humectants like aloe and seaweed to provide moisture.

Custards vs. Other Products

Compared to other curl products, custards sit somewhere between a gel and a cream in terms of texture and hold. Here’s how they stack up:

• Creams: Usually have little to no hold and are higher in emollients (oils and butters). People often reach for a cream expecting definition, then wonder why it doesn’t hold, but that’s just not what creams are made for.
• Leave-ins: Have no hold at all and focus entirely on softness and moisture. They’re great under a custard or gel for added conditioning. and many also have heat and UV protection.
• Mousse: Easier for many people to apply thanks to the pump format, it’s simple to control how many pumps you use, and the foamy texture spreads easily. However, mousse typically offers less hold than custard or gel.

So if creams are for softness and gels are for structure, custards give you a bit of both: soft, defined curls with a flexible hold.

Recommended Curl Custards & Gels

Here are a few curl custards I personally recommend (and have tested myself):

MopTop Curling Custard

This is the one I use the most! It has a delightful jelly-like texture and a light kumquat scent. Even though I have wavy hair, it still works beautifully for me.

CGM Approved

Sulfate FreeSilicone Free

Buy on AmazonTry a sample

Available on Curls Monthly To Sample!

Rizos Curls Defining Custard

Available on Curls Monthly

CGM Approved

Sulfate FreeSilicone Free

Try a sample

Inahsi Curl Enhancing Custard

Available on Curls Monthly

CGM Approved

Sulfate FreeSilicone Free

Try a sample

What Hair Types Do Best with Custard?

Curl custards were originally formulated for tighter textures like tight curls, coils, and kinks. Their thicker, denser formula works well on these hair types, which have more surface area per strand than looser curls and waves.

While many people associate heavier, oil-rich products with tighter textures, custards are actually lighter in emollients. That makes them a great fit for people with tighter curl patterns but fine or easily weighed-down hair. Kelly Foreman described it perfectly: custard is “thick but light,” since it’s low in oils and butters that can make finer strands feel greasy.

If you have fine, curly, coily, or kinky hair and want more bounce without heaviness, custard might be your ideal styler. Its thick but spreadable texture also makes it great for protective styles like braids and twists, not just wash-and-gos. There is also some evidence that humectant-rich products like custards can benefit prevent breakage in tightly curled hair, something Lab Muffin talks about in her video on hydration.

That said, looser textures can still use custard, you just need less of it. Using too much can weigh down your strands, stretch out your curl pattern, or make it look stringy.

I have a very loose curl pattern myself and use MopTop’s custard often. I just have to use a small amount, I start with a coin-sized dab and add more only when needed. Sometimes I mist a bit of water into my hands to help it spread more evenly. The bonus? Because I use so little (and I don't have a ton of hair...), one jar lasts me forever.

For beginners with looser textures, I usually recommend starting with lighter stylers like mousse or liquid gels first, then experimenting with custards once you get a feel for how much product your hair actually needs.

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In terms of hair porosity (find your porosity with our free porosity quiz), custards should work well for all porosity types. Custards might be more friendly to high porosity hair compared to the average gel due to their humectant-rich formula, but you'll likely want to layer with a leave-in or cream for extra protection from everyday hazards like humidity and UV damage.

Benefits and Drawbacks of Custard

What Are the Benefits of Curling Custard?

The main benefits of curling custard are:

• Thick yet lightweight: It has body and hold without being heavy, since it’s low in emollients (like oils and butters).
• A little goes a long way: You often need only a small amount, so one jar can last a long time.
• Soft, flexible hold: It defines curls without making them stiff or crunchy.
• Conditioning: Some formulas are moisturizing enough to act as an all-in-one styler.
• Layer-friendly: Works well with other products like leave-ins or gels.
• Juicy curl clumps: Many people love the thick, defined, “juicy” curl clumps it creates.

What Are the Drawbacks of Custard?

Some people find that custards can be a bit tricky depending on their hair type or routine:

• Can weigh down looser patterns (like waves or loose curls) if too much is used.
• High humectant content means longer dry time and sensitivity to humidity.
• Moderate hold: Not as strong as some firm-hold gels, which some prefer for extra longevity.
• Large clumps = less volume: Great for definition, but not ideal if you like fluffy volume.
• Harder to distribute evenly than thinner gels or mousses.

How to Use Curl Custard

Do You Use Curling Custard on Wet or Dry Hair?

Kelly Foreman recommends applying custard to soaking wet hair, which is usually how I use it too. However, in “The Worst Curly Hair Routine on the Internet” (a routine designed for loose curls and waves), it’s applied on both wet and almost dry hair to boost volume and reduce frizz.

So, there’s no single right way — experiment to see what gives you the results you like best.

How to Apply Curl Custard

Always check the instructions on your specific product first, but here are some general starting points depending on your curl type:

For Tight Textures (Tight Curls, Coils, and Kinks)

1. Section your hair: Experiment with how many sections work best, usually whatever fits comfortably in your clips.
2. Add moisture: Lightly mist each section with water if it’s starting to dry out.
3. Apply product: Take a small glob per section and smooth it through your hair using your hands. You can rake it through with your fingers or use a wide-tooth comb.
4. Adjust as needed: If your curls don’t look right or feel evenly coated, add a bit more product or water until it feels balanced.
5. Dry: Air dry, diffuse, or do a mix of both.
6. Scrunch: Once dry, gently scrunch your hair with your hands to soften the cast and bring out bounce and shine. To reduce frizz, coat your hands with an oil or other emollient product before scrunching.

For Loose Textures (Loose Curls and Waves)

1. Start small: Use a coin-sized amount to begin.
2. Emulsify: Add a little water (from the shower or a spray bottle) and rub your hands together to mix it evenly.
3. Apply product: Smooth the custard over your hair using the “prayer hands” method or use a styling brush, then scrunch to encourage texture.
4. Adjust hold: If you’re not getting enough definition, you can add a bit more product.
5. Dry: Air dry, diffuse, or do a mix of both.
6. Scrunch out the crunch: Once your hair is 100% dry, scrunch it with your hands to soften the cast and add bounce. I personally coat my hands with a lightweight spray leave-in or oil serum first to reduce frizz.

Best Styling Techniques for Curl Custard

These application steps are just the beginning! Curl custard works well with many different styling methods. You can find a full list in our Styling Dictionary.

Because custard has a thick but slippery texture, it’s surprisingly versatile. It works great for brush styling, rake-and-shake, or finger coiling, and it gives nice definition for twists and braid-outs too.

If you’re experimenting, start with a small amount and adjust and you’ll quickly learn how custard behaves with your favorite techniques.

Using Custard with Other Products

Custard can be layered with other products for extra benefits. I personally always use at least a light leave-in underneath as it helps protect my hair from friction and UV exposure.

I’ve experimented with product order quite a bit, and honestly, it doesn’t seem to make a big difference for me, but it’s always worth testing. Typically, though, most people apply leave-in first, then custard, followed by any finishing product.

Here are a few layering ideas to try:

• Under a stronger-hold gel: Gives you large, juicy curl clumps with extra hold.
• Over a lighter-hold gel: Adds a touch more hold while keeping curls soft.
• Over a cream: Boosts conditioning for hair that tends to feel dry.
• Finish with hairspray: Apply once hair is dry (after scrunching out the crunch) to lock in definition.

Layering can make your results even better, but it also increases the risk of flaking. Kelly Foreman’s tip: “You can test how products react by mixing them in your hand first.” If they blend smoothly, they’ll likely play well together on your hair too.

Conclusion

So, what’s the bottom line? Custard is a type of gel, but usually thicker, softer, and often more moisturizing than the average gel.

It was originally designed for tighter textures, but with the right technique (and the right amount), almost anyone can use it. Custards bridge the gap between cream and gel by giving you hold, definition, and that juicy, flexible finish without heaviness.

If you’ve never tried one before, start small, experiment with application on wet vs. damp hair, and see how your curls respond. Every formula,and every head of hair, behaves a little differently.

And remember: the goal isn’t to find the “perfect” product right away, but to understand how your hair likes to be treated. Custard might just be the missing piece that gives you those glossy, bouncy curls you’ve been chasing.

About the Author

Melissa McEwen is the creator of CurlsBot. She is a software developer with training in science writing and a B.S. in Agricultural Science. Her writing has appeared in publications such as NPR and Quartz.