I've had problems with dandruff my entire life. Since I was a baby with "cradle cap" I've had recurring outbreaks of dandruff, but in my 30s I thought it had gone away for good. Unfortunately, when I started doing a curly hair routine, the curly girl method, it came back severely to the point where I was losing hair.

Going online to forums, I found numerous posts from people following the curly girl method who were also suffering from increase dandruff. After reading through these forums and reflecting on my own experience, I started to wonder what was behind this connection.

Why do so many of us suffer from dandruff? The answer may lie in curly hair's unique structure and the ingredients in common curly hair products.

Glossary

This post includes some technical terms, so here’s a quick glossary to help:

• Dandruff: scalp flaking, sometimes accompanied with itching
• Seborrhoeic dermatitis (sebderm for short): the most severe type of dandruff, a medical condition that can lead to inflamed, red, and scaly patches of skin
• Malassezia: A genus of fungi/yeast that live on the scalp, which has been linked to dandruff
• Sebum: the natural oils secreted by the scalp
• Oleic acid: an unsaturated fatty acid found in sebum that can trigger irritation in sensitive individuals
• TEWL (transepidermal water loss) : A measurement of how much water evaporates from the skin, used to assess skin barrier function and dryness
• Occlusives: ingredients that form a barrier on the skin or scalp to prevent moisture loss

What Causes Dandruff

Dandruff is a complex condition believed to stem from multiple interrelated factors:

1. Fungi in the scalp microbiome: Malassezia yeast, which feed on scalp oils and produce byproducts such as oleic acid
2. Sebum: The natural oils produced by the scalp, which vary from person to person. Malassezia thrive on sebum
3. Sensitivities: T Not everyone reacts to oleic acid the same way. In people with dandruff, it can trigger symptoms even without the presence of Malassezia ^[20][21]
4. Scalp condition: Studies show that people with seborrhoeic dermatitis (severe dandruff) often have increased TEWL (transepidermal water loss), indicating a more permeable and dryness-prone scalp ^[22]

So dandruff involves both fungal overgrowth and impaired scalp barrier function. Whether one causes the other remains up for debate

Since conditions like sebderm are often mistaken for simple dry scalp, which has different causes and treatment, it’s worth seeing a dermatologist to get a proper diagnosis.

Why People With Curly Hair Are More Prone to Dandruff

Studies show that people with curly hair are more likely to suffer from dandruff, mainly due to two factors

1. Sebum: In straight hair, sebum naturally travels down the hair away from the scalp. The curlier your hair is, the less of this process happens, and the more sebum is left on your scalp for yeasts like Malassezia to consume.
2. Habits: People with curly hair tend to wash less frequently and use more oil-heavy products, which are two habits linked to worsened dandruff ^[23]

The main takeaway here is buildup on your scalp can feed Malassezia, which can cause dandruff. The buildup can be from your own scalp sebum or products. This explains why people with curly hair are more susceptible to dandruff and how curly hair routines and products can worsen the situation.

How Curly Hair Routines Can Trigger Dandruff

Scalp buildup is a major issue for people with curly hair. Unfortunately, our routines and products can make it worse.

Not Washing Hair Enough

One common cause of scalp buildup is infrequent washing. To preserve their hairstyles, often on the advice of well-meaning stylists, many people with curly hair avoid washing as much as possible. Some studies show that those with the curliest textures may go weeks without a wash.

While avoiding washing helps preserve your style and can prevent dryness, it can cause sebum to accumulate on the scalp, feeding Malassezia fungi.

One study found that people with dandruff had higher levels of Malassezia on their scalp. The problem worsened the longer they went without washing. Simply washing the hair reduced Malassezia by nearly 1,000-fold! The study authors recommended washing hair at least weekly ^[23].

Using Cowashes or Too-Gentle Shampoos

Another cause of scalp buildup is using cleansing products that don’t cleanse effectively such as cowash or special extra-gentle shampoos marketed for curly. Cowash is short for "conditioning wash" and is a gentle cleanser made out of the same ingredients as conditioners.

As we discussed Sebum, the scalp’s natural oil, feeds fungi like dandruff-causing Malassezia. There isn’t much research on how shampoo strength affects scalp sebum, but one study found that cowash removed 3% less sebum from hair strands compared to shampoo ^[24].

However, while removing sebum from the scalp may help reduce dandruff, people with curly hair especially need sebum on the hair strands to lubricate them and prevent moisture loss ^[25].

Using Products Rich in Oils/Butters

Products can also contribute to scalp buildup, especially those with fatty ingredients like oils and butters, which may feed Malassezia. Fatty alcohols are sometimes mentioned too, though they’re generally considered less problematic.

Oils that feed Malassezia

One study found that Malassezia grew most readily on the following substances (ranked from highest to lowest support for growth) ^{[26] [27]} :

• Butter
• Corn oil
• Olive oil
• Coconut oil
• Oleic acid (purified form of fat found in many oils like olive oil)
• Castor oil

However, these studies were done in the lab and not on actual human scalps. I only know of one study that was done on oils on human scalps and the results were more complicated. Interestingly, the study found that coconut oil increased Malassezia levels on the scalp but also improved scalp condition and reduced itching. The authors suggested that coconut oil might promote the growth of beneficial fungal strains and improve scalp health, as measured by reduced TEWL (transepidermal water loss). This highlights how complex dandruff is—it’s not just about fungus, but also about the overall condition of the scalp ^[28]. Just to be safe, a growing number of dermatologists are recommending avoiding oils that feed Malassezia ^[26].

Oils that don't feed Malassezia

Some oils appear to be safe for those avoiding Malassezia-triggering ingredients:, these are

• MCT oil (which is derived from coconut oil and seems to have many of the same benefits) ^[29]
• Squalane
• Mineral oil

However, see the next section for why these might require some caution as well.

Occlusive Products Trapping Buildup On The Scalp

Some ingredients can form an occlusive (water-proof) barrier on the scalp. This traps dirt, shed skin cells, product residue, and sebum—creating an ideal environment for fungal growth ^[23]. This effect can occur with all oils and non water-permeable products, even those considered safe for Malassezia. Petroleum jelly is likely the most occlusive and may be especially problematic.

Using Non-Medicated Remedies

In the U.S., shampoos that claim to treat dandruff must be regulated as over-the-counter drugs, which involves stricter requirements. Many brands—especially curly hair brands—avoid this by marketing products as promoting 'scalp health' or helping with a 'flaky scalp.' These aren’t subject to drug regulations and their associated testing requirements ^[30].

These products often rely on "natural" ingredients like tea tree essential oil (note: essential oils aren’t technically oils). There is some science to support their use—tea tree essential oil has shown antifungal properties in lab studies. But it can also cause irritation, especially for those with sensitive scalps. Some scalp scrubs are also loaded with potential irritants and might be too abrasive, which may do more harm than good.

Bottom line: you can try these remedies, but they don’t work for everyone. If your symptoms persist or worsen, it’s worth switching to an OTC or prescription dandruff shampoo—and consulting a dermatologist if possible

Avoiding Sulfate-Containing Dandruff Shampoos

As someone who has been part of online curly communities for years, I can't tell you how many times someone has posted about not using dandruff shampoo, prescription or not, because they are afraid of sulfates.

Studies have shown that many Black women with very curly hair experience dryness and breakage from prescription shampoos. However, the issue may be caused by the antifungal ingredient ketoconazole rather than the sulfates themselves ^[30]. Other options, like zinc pyrithione or selenium sulfide shampoos, may be less harsh. A newer prescription treatment—roflumilast foam—was developed with curly hair in mind and can be applied daily without washing ^[30].

Pre-Poo Routine to Prevent Dryness From Dandruff Shampoo

If you don’t have access to a well-formulated prescription shampoo, you may be stuck using an OTC or prescription option that’s too drying for curly or wavy hair.

That’s been the case for me, and with long hair I worry about my ends drying out, so here’s the method I use to avoid dryness:

1. Before showering, I apply The Ordinary squalane to my scalp and a bonding pre-poo product to my ends. If you prefer, you can skip the scalp oil and just pre-poo/oil the ends.
2. Once in the shower, I apply conditioner to my ends before shampooing.
3. Next, I apply dandruff shampoo to my scalp only and leave it on for the recommended time.
4. After that, I wash my whole head with a gentle shampoo(currently Bounce Curl Gentle, oils are fine in shampoo as well in my experience). I massage my scalp with fingertips or a shampoo brush to ensure a thorough cleanse.
5. Follow with an oil-free conditioner, focusing on the ends. Some product gets near the roots when I squish to condish, so that's why I use an oil-free conditioner.
6. If I use styling products near my scalp, I make sure they’re oil-free.

Additional tips:

• I clarify monthly with a hard water treatment like Malibu C
• Occasionally, I do exfoliating treatments like glycolic acid scalp serums (see my article on best ordinary products for wavy and curly hair) or scrubs

Products Used

The Ordinary 100% Plant-Derived Squalane

A lightweight oil that's perfect for pre-poo treatments

CGM Approved

Sulfate FreeSilicone Free

The OrdinaryBuy on Amazon

Analyze with Curlsbot

The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Exfoliating Toner

Can be used as a flaky scalp treatment

CGM Approved

Sulfate FreeSilicone Free

The OrdinaryBuy on Amazon

Analyze with Curlsbot

Malibu C Curl Partner Wellness Remedy

A chelating treatment with multiple active ingredients

CGM Approved

Sulfate FreeSilicone Free

Buy on AmazonTry a sample

Analyze with Curlsbot

Umberto Giannini Scalp Scrub Exfoliating Anti-Dandruff Treatment

Exfoliating pre-poo scalp scrub

CGM Approved

Sulfate FreeSilicone Free

Umberto Giannini (UK and US)Buy on AmazonTry a sample

Analyze with Curlsbot

Dandruff Prevention Tips for Curly Hair Routines

1. Wash your hair at least once a week—use a pre-poo to protect your ends if needed
2. Avoid leaving oils (especially those that feed Malassezia) on your scalp
3. Consider medicated treatments like OTC dandruff shampoos, prescription shampoos, or antifungal foams/creams
4. Exfoliate your scalp occasionally with acid-based treatments or scrubs

The biggest takeaway for me is that keeping my scalp free of buildup is essential to preventing dandruff. Avoiding oils on my scalp has helped me stay sebderm-free for the past few years, though it took adding the exfoliating treatments to be 100% dandruff free. I hope this guide helps you find what works for your hair and scalp, too.

A Visual Guide to Dandruff + Curly Hair Routines

The connection between curly hair routines and dandruff